Just after high tide, Treen Cove and its beach were full of the Atlantic. There was a tranquil atmosphere down by the waterline. You feel the great distance west as you look out from the rocks here, all the way to America.
Rupert’s vital reference point, the beach, wherever he is.
Enjoying the beauty of Treen Cove in the morning.
Treen Cove is exactly half way between St Ives and St Just, 6 miles each way on the scenic coast road. With no facilities and a long and at times tricky path to negotiate from behind the Gurnard’s Head Hotel, Treen Cove seems a drag to get to, but, believe me, it’s worth it. When here, you feel very close to a big ocean and its motions, and you can walk even closer to it via Gurnard’s Head itself. Just see the deep pleasure that my interviewee Lucy felt, as a relief from her hectic job as a lawyer in Bristol.
Interview with Lucy and Andy at Treen Cove, across from Gurnard’s Head.
Seals in the water, at Treen Cove in West Cornwall.
First view of Treen Cove and across to Gurnard’s Head.
The low tide at Treen Cove revealed a pristine sandy beach, backed by rounded, dense stones, fashioned by the Atlantic. The cove’s cliffs featured waterfalls that showered the beach, through lime and limpet green foliage. It’s an inaccessible beach and you need to keep an eye on the tide here. The compensation is a totally unspoilt wonderland of textures and colour, with the Gurnard’s Head rocks to the south, Zennor and Morvah in close attendance. A taste of wild Cornwall.
On a brand new beach at Treen Cove.
I returned to Treen Cove on a low spring tide, the only time the beach is accessible, by a tricky, rocky descent after a fair walk down from the road at the Gurnard’s Head Hotel. This was an outstanding natural experience, from the beauty of the exposed sandy beach to the violent action of the breakers on the hard rock. By the way, my interviewee, Andy from the hotel, told me that the derelict building above the beach is an old pilchard processing plant, rather than an engine house, as I suggested.
Raw nature and a beautiful beach at Treen Cove.
Treen Cove again, this time from the back of the beach at low tide.
After a long winter of storms and incessant wet weather in the West Country, this re-visit coincided with a welcome return to high pressure and blue skies. Spring had arrived, with primroses, some gorse and the first glimpses of white blackthorn in the hedges. A strong, mild breeze enlivened proceedings, a tonic for interviewee Wolf, before his and Carol’s imminent journey to the stiller air of India.
A respite in West Cornwall before pastures new, for Carol and Wolf.
High tide at Treen Cove, by the Gurnard’s Head and the Atlantic.