Season: spring
I encountered a sharp, clear dawn during this early spring visit to Looe. The tide was high and there was a fine view back to the beach and town from the end of the Banjo Pier, with occasional waves breaking over its surface. As the town started to wake up, the fish processors, wholesalers and retailers were well under way with their working days.
With Mick from the Harbour Commission at Looe.
The scene at dawn, as seen from the end of the Banjo Pier.
Season: winter
The sea was flat calm on this winter visit to Looe on Cornwall’s south east coast. There were many visitors in the town, enjoying the independent shops and the twisting streets. The harbour was a picture at high tide and I was struck by the clarity of the water, with the seabed clearly visible through ten feet of water at the harbour entrance. This town feels go-ahead and energetic, with due deference paid to the fishing community and its roots.
With Ernie, who runs the ferry across the harbour in Looe.
Season: autumn
Looe is a top tourist destination on Cornwall’s south coast, but I found it to be a thriving working harbour too during my early morning visit in December. You can park right in the centre of town and easily walk down through attractive shops and restaurants to the beach on the east side of town. The beach is surprisingly large, looking out to the bay and across to Looe Island. There are convenient facilities immediately to hand, as well as fine walks on the South West Coast Path in both directions. This is a great place to visit for nature, shopping and a proper Cornish atmosphere.
At Nippers shellfish shop in Looe.
Looe beach is the magnet that draws every visitor to the seashore. Irrespective of age, we all respond to the call of the sea, whether to immerse ourselves in the water or to simply soak up the atmosphere. From the moment visitors arrive in Looe, there is only one destination in prospect and on the return walk, well, that’s when the many boutiques, restaurants, pubs and cafes form a pleasant diversion at the end of the day.
Ice creams, family fun on golden sands, bass fishing from Banjo pier and not forgetting Nelson the Seal. With narrow streets, Cornish pasties and seaside cafes too. Plenty to do: surfing, prawning and collecting Looe Bay scallops after stormy weather.
Looe Beach means a beautiful sea, safe for bathers of all ages, and all those others who enjoy climbing in a dinghy or jumping on a paddleboard. If you’re a serious swimmer it’s the ideal place to join regular groups of local who swim across the bay, further out and even around to adjacent bays such as Millendreath.
The beach itself is beautifully kept with one of the local town Trusts having a tractor go out each morning to prepare the beach for the days of fun and adventure to be had by young and old alike.
Whether it’s early morning or late evening, there are always people enjoying the beach and sea. You can spot people having an exercise class at dawn, just as the first swimmers venture out. Dogs aren’t allowed onto the beach but they get to enjoy the promenade with their owners, who pass by in their dozens every day. In the evenings, the gig boats go out, or the RNLI crews go out and practice their launches, or even the simmers are out again, enjoying looking back upon the beautifully lit town as dusk falls – it’s quite a sight from the sea.
Boats can be hired to poodle up the Looe rivers, as can kayaks and paddle boars for some fun on the sea. There’s good fishing to be had too, especially around the corner at Hannafore Point, opposite Looe Island, where rockpool rambles are popular. At the low spring tides it’s possible to walk/wade across to the island; that’s yet another wonderful adventure originating from Looe Beach.
Overall, Looe Beach is everything to everyone. It’s fun, it’s wild, it’s peaceful, it’s busy, it’s quiet, it’s nature, it’s bustling with ice creams and pasties, it’s calm, it’s clean, it’s tranquil – but above all else it’s BEAUTIFUL.