Season: summer
For this seasonal visit, I returned to Howmore itself, walking past the chapel down to the white, sandy beach, with its river running to the sea and its sheltering dunes. The beach is stunningly beautiful, with an unspoilt backdrop and a sense of timelessness. The area has been the site of religious settlements and churches for many centuries, but nature is the star here, in all its glory. I interviewed people staying at the excellent hostel near to the beach, one of three on the islands provided by the Gatliff Hebridean Hostels Trust.
What the beach means to Ian, Marcus and Davy.
Here’s a photo from Visit Outer Hebrides of Kilpheder beach, a highlight from this long strand of beaches at Howmore.
Season: spring
This beach on the west side of South Uist, with the familiar machair and summer wild flowers behind, is designated as the South Uist Machair Special Area of Conservation. However, visitors will also be struck by the thatched crofts that are congregated behind the beach. I visited the bottom section, below the village of Howmore. This part of the beach is known as Stoneybridge, with the road behind being close to the sea and often awash with storm debris. There’s a collection of ruined churches and chapels, giving a sense of being back in time and exuding a rather foreboding feel. The beach stretches out to the north, as far as Ardachy Point, a fine choice for a long walk.
The scene from the machair above the beach at Stoneybridge, south of Howmore.
Looking back up the beach at low tide.
Homore beach reminds me of my childhood many years ago, walking and playing on this beautiful beach that stretches for miles, then walking to church in Bornish on Sundays. I remember crofters gathering seaweed for their crops, Tom cutting tangles while his dogs played on the beach, looking out to sea to our nearest neighbours, Nova Scotia and Canada.
This beach is a life saver for me. It’s a place to take my dog for a walk and to relax and take in the beauty of the surroundings, and listen to nature. With the stresses of work and life, it’s a place to go to recharge and take in the fresh air. I love the sound of the sea, it relaxes me.
Kilpheder beach and the long peaceful shoreline that runs to Daliburgh and far beyond has a very special place in my heart. As a child, it had a magical feeling, its silver sands and the fact it was so undiscovered by people made it the perfect spot to imagine I was Robinson Crusoe on his deserted island with the dunes as a place to shelter. Now, as an adult I appreciate the seclusion and tranquility for so many other reasons. To stand on the water`s edge and see all the wildlife-seals, dolphins, seabirds,makes me feel calm but also energized, it’s a place to reflect and contemplate, this long stretch of beach is also a wonderful spot to go running when the mood takes me. Just a little way in from the shore itself are the remains of Round House dwellings or the Wheelhouse as we knew it. Dating back to the Bronze Age, another fascinating spot with a wealth of history and an area of the beach I always make a detour to.