Category Archives: Mid Cornwall

Carlyon Bay beach

Season: summer

Time had treated this beach kindly since my last visit. The derelict Cornwall Colosseum had gone and the back of the beach was being landscaped. The railings had retreated back up the beach and two stylish concessions, plus beach flags, now welcomed the summer visitors. The beach was clean and the view out to the bay and headlands remained wonderful. An up-market development has planning permission for holiday accommodation.

A family reflect on the beach’s appeal.

All change, yet still the same at Carlyon Bay.

Season: winter

Any visitor can enjoy a walk east along this long, naturally beautiful beach. There are far distant headlands in both directions to add perspective, both east via Par Sands and to the west via Charlestown and Mevagissey, then on towards Gorran Haven. The relatively steep nature of the beach magnifies the thunderous impact of the waves against the shore, highly atmospheric.

The sensory appeal of beaches for Bill.

A lifetime by the beach for Fiona.

The tide falls away at Carlyon Bay.

Season: autumn

There was a gentle, soporific feel to Carlyon Bay for this visit. Cormorants dried their wings on small protruding rocks just off the shore as the high spring tide fell away on quite a short, steep beach. It’s a great beach to walk along, looking out on a pleasing bay, with headlands in both directions. I don’t know why, but this is one of those beaches that takes you away in your mind and then you wake up, snapping out of the dream and surprising yourself.

Jim is happy to be on the beach.

Watching the water flow.

Season: spring

A blustery, mild morning greeted me on this return to Carlyon Bay. White waves crashed against the steep slope of the sand. A backdrop of sheer cliffs, with all manner of hunting birds circling, completed the picture.

With Pam above the beach at Carlyon Bay.

Hemmick beach

Season: spring

Bright sunshine greeted me on this spring visit to Hemmick. As Giles explains below, the outstanding natural beauty of this part of Cornwall’s south coast owes much to the work of the National Trust. Hemmick beach is a pleasure to visit at any time. I recommend the path up through the woods to the Dodman Point, where you can see Iron Age and Napoleonic archaeology and history, as well as staggering views, either across to the Nare Head or back towards Vault beach.

Giles’ testimony to the conservation and husbandry of the National Trust at Hemmick beach and beyond on Cornwall’s south coast.

Season: winter

Outstanding visibility was the order of the day for this return to beautiful Hemmick beach. Visitors could see all the way to the tip of the Lizard peninsula and the sky was bright blue. The walk down from the National Trust car park at Penare is steep, but it offers an outstanding view, drawing you down to the sandy beach. It’s worth stopping on the steep return ascent to remind yourself of the unspoilt beauty and to frame a lasting image in your mind before you return.

What the beach means to Mark.

A bright blue day at Hemmick beach.

Season: spring

Clean surf crashed onto the beach at Hemmick for this spring visit. The sky was blue, the weather warm and the sunshine bright in the morning sky. As the tide turned inwards, odd weekending visitors started to settle for a restful day, collecting driftwood for their barbecues and stopping to gaze out over the waves, lost in their thoughts.

Lindsey and David reflect on beaches and coastlines.

By the water at Hemmick in the morning.

Season: autumn

One of Cornwall’s least spoilt beaches, nestled beneath the Dodman Point on the south coast of Cornwall, Hemmick always seems to attract healthy surf, despite its southerly aspect. Access is from Penare village at the top of a steep road or from a few parking spaces next to the beach. If you’re feeling energetic, I recommend the headland walk up to the Dodman, where there’s archaeology and history aplenty to enjoy, as shown by the films below of the Napoleonic Watch House.

Up at the Dodman Point above the beach, here’s part 1 of a snapshot of life in Napoleonic times.

…and here’s part 2, as seen from the Watch House at Dodman Point.

Season: spring

This early morning visit showed the storm damage from the winter, with a significant cliff fall at the back of the beach. Hemmick was stonier than on my previous visit, again due to the storms. This morning was bright though, with blue sky and a silver sea as languid waves lapped the shore. It heralded a warm, sunny day here on the south coast of Cornwall.

A variety of uses for the beach.

Portmellon beach

Season: winter

For this winter visit, coinciding with high tide, I walked up along Portmellon’s southern headland, towards Colona beach. From the grassy bank above the sea, the panoramic view from Portmellon itself round to Chapel Point was breathtaking, serene and calm, taking in Mevagissey, Par Sands and out towards Fowey. It was well worth the walk.

The joy of the beach for Mary.

A walk out to Chapel Point above Portmellon.

Season: autumn

The easterly aspect at Portmellon makes it a fine beach to visit in the morning. It sits in an inlet between Mevagissey to the north and Colona beach to the south, just beyond Chapel Point. On this occasion the tide had brought kelp up onto the sand from the recent storms, its colours and textures glistening in the morning sun.

Kate runs an artist’s eye over the terrain.

Portmellon in the morning

Season: summer

In the morning, facing east, Portmellon greets the dawn every day. Colona House guards the northern edge of the inlet, with the idyllic Chapel Point to the south. Here’s the start of the day, in all its glory:

Season: spring

If you can avoid an easterly wind, this beach reflects the gentler side of Cornwall, as it sits in the lea of the prevailing winds. Today, it was mild and calm, with the tide falling away from the substantial sea defences. As Portmellon village woke up, the sun shimmered on a grey blue sea.

The changing appeal of the beach.

Portmellon on a falling tide.

Season: winter

It was a gentle, grey blue morning for my return to Portmellon. There was a high tide with a modest swell. Nevertheless, the seaweed and sand strewn along the road bore witness to the power of nature at work here earlier. The hamlet faces east and has a changing demeanour, as explained by Rod, below:

With Rod by the water at Portmellon.

Evidence of a recent spring tide at Portmellon.

Season: autumn

This quiet village sits between Gorran Haven and Mevagissey. Most people here live on a hill behind the beach and road, which is just as well, because any easterly storm will cross the road and bombard the beach-side houses, spreading seaweed over the road and any passing cars. There is ample parking, a pub (The Rising Sun) and toilets, but no shop.

The view from outside the entrance to The Rising Sun pub.

A view from the boatyard end of the village.

Pendower beach

Season: spring

A serene sea and warm sunshine greeted me at Pendower beach for this spring visit. The tide was half in, with lime green rocks still visible on the shoreline. A river runs down to join the sea here. This is an exquisite beach.

With Lesley, by the shore at Pendower beach.

Helen and Ben explain what the beach means to them.

Season: winter

As the rising tide claimed back Pendower beach, the river down to the beach was in spate, replete with recent storm water. Bright sunshine lit the back of the beach, casting long shadows from its low winter trajectory. Portscatho to the west and the Nare Head to the east were clearly visible and it was still just possible to walk along to Carne beach. This is a majestic, natural beach, spectacular and elemental.

An important reference point for Ali.

A bright winter morning on Pendower beach.

Season: summer

A dawn visit to Pendower beach two days before the summer solstice showcased the moody, atmospheric elements here. A lone dog walker accompanied me for this 5.15 a.m. sojourn. The sky tends to the apocalyptic at the mildest of times on Pendower. There was a wild, dark cloak of sky and sun over the beach at this time, yet the sea was placid and calm. It was a wonderful sight and a sensation that remained with me long after the visit.

What this beach means to Michaela.

A high summer dawn at Pendower beach.

Season: winter

A low tide, mixed with a breaking dawn, made this an atmospheric return to Pendower beach, its scale emphasised by the open sand that connects it to Carne beach on any low tide. Down by the water on a calm day, all eyes were drawn to the spectacular dawn colours around the Nare Head in the east. There was noticeably more erosion since my last visit, the storms having eaten away at the soft cliffs behind the beach.

The changes and variety that Debbie enjoys in the beach.

A fine vista at Pendower beach in the morning.

Season: summer

There’s an uncanny benevolence to this beach. Its varied topology is also interesting, with trees, dunes, a river, eroded rocks, sand and the ocean all in close proximity. Perhaps it’s this variety of sensory stimuli that evokes such a feeling of contentment.

Matt, Rosie and Sue explain what pulls them to the beach.

Pendower beach on half a tide in the spring sunshine.

Portloe

Season: spring

In the interview below, Steve describes the water as “mesmerising”, an impression I got from all of Portloe on this visit. To wander through the early morning village was to be in a dream. The still morning, with a misty air quality, was soporific and enchanting. At low tide the inshore fishing boats, Jasmine and Katie Lil, were safely harboured. I passed them on my way down to the shoreline to gaze back up the valley at this ancient village.

With Steve, early in a late spring morning.

The harbour and village, as seen from above at low tide.

Season: autumn

This was an early favourite visit from the manonabeach® series. I arrived before dawn to enjoy the attractive fishing village waking up at high tide. Portloe is a quaint, upmarket holiday destination now, yet I will never forget my experience of seeing the other Cornwall of fishing still thriving here.

Chris and Dave launch their two fishing boats at Portloe.

Season: winter

It was mild and peaceful at Portloe for this winter visit. The village was waking up and one fishing boat was already at sea. The water was calm and crystal clear, lapping the harbour wall at high tide.

The harbour at high tide.

Gyllyngvase beach

Season: spring

Bright sunshine and high pressure greeted me at Gyllyngvase beach. Morning visitors were enjoying a reminder of the sea air before work, sharing the beach with dog walkers and swimmers. The Gylly Beach Cafe was already open for breakfast and Falmouth was waking up. Welcome sunshine lit the rising tide, a respite after recent winter storms.

The beach as a link to the sea and fishing for John, who also highlights its place in the community. You can learn more about the Shark Trust here.

Bright sunshine and a rising tide at Gyllyngvase beach.

Season: autumn

It’s always a pleasure to visit this high octane Falmouth beach, particularly on a bright weekend morning when it’s a hive of activity. As a town beach, it holds a natural attraction for townspeople, with volleyball nets, a popular cafe and a safe swimming environment. The tide was low during this visit and there was plenty of space for everyone, both in and out of the water. There are pleasant gardens by the beach too, with fine views to enjoy over Falmouth Bay as you look round from Pendennis Castle to the Helford Estuary.

Mary explains what it’s like to swim at Gyllyngvase (see Peter also, lower down on this page).

A view of the beach from the rocks at low tide.

Season: spring

A mountainous sea thundered against Gyllyngvase beach for this early spring visit. Icy winds and a morning chill set the tone. An ebb tide clawed at the sand, leaving thirty feet of trace on the sand before returning to the beach. Above the sea, an apocalyptic sky, with clouds full of snow, threatened to add its contents to the elemental mix.

The attraction of the sea for Matt.

A wild morning at the beach.

Season: summer

A bright morning on a low tide set the large ships in Falmouth Bay in relief against an azure, flat sea. Early morning swimmers reminded me of paintings from the Alex Katz exhibition, showing at Tate St Ives this summer. I had filmed in the atrium there in the spring; here it is.

Sisters Victoria and Vanessa, enjoying nature’s bounty at Gyllyngvase beach.

The beach in the morning.

Season: spring

Bright sunshine greeted me on this visit. The spring morning had attracted swimmers and walkers alike. The beach had its seasonal fixtures in place for the summer – volleyball pitch, sand pit, trestle tables and lifeguard viewing platform. As the tide fell away on the steep beach clean breakers crashed onto the sand, a raw energy to start the day.

John explains the release the beach gives him.

By the sea in the morning, looking out across Falmouth Bay to start the day.

Season: winter

It was a mild January dawn return visit, with the sea and sky grey blue against the sand. Being a town beach, there were plenty of people about. The atmosphere was one of routine and regularity, fitting a beach visit into a hectic schedule. Both interviews show the deep affection held by people for being at the beach. Falmouth is such a buzzing town at present. I highly recommend a visit.

Peter’s relationship with the water at the beach from an aesthetic perspective.

Victoria, at Gyllyngvase beach early in the morning.

A mild, grey blue vista at dawn.

Season: autumn

Another famous Cornish beach, this is the main Falmouth leisure beach, looking out to the south over Falmouth Bay and the tankers waiting for orders or bunkers. Gyllyngvase is popular all year round. Autumn is usually very mild in Cornwall and the weather was outstanding during this visit. The beach was at its best.

At the water’s edge on Gyllyngvase beach.

Watching the swimmers.

A spectacular panorama.

Portholland

Season: summer

Wild rain and a strong wind set the scene at Portholland, with waves lashing the sea defences as the tide started to fall away. Village residents were stockaded behind closed doors, avoiding the worst of the weather. The vibrant sea and the random nature of the elements made this an exciting place to be. I chatted to Trounce in the shelter of his home, about the beach, the sea and the lyrical appeal of Portholland to him.

With Trounce and his recollections of Portholland and swimming in the sea.

Trounce’s poem.

The action of the sea against the shore at East Portholland.

Season: spring

Portholland, East and West, was bathed in sunshine on a high tide for this spring visit. Locals and visitors were sitting out at this south west facing cove, enjoying a welcome respite from the recent winter storms. This couldn’t have been a more different sight, tranquil and peaceful, an oasis of calm in which to enjoy a relaxing weekend afternoon.

What the beach means to Jill.

Par Sands

Season: spring

A balmy spell of weather continued for this spring visit to Par Sands. Bright yellow gorse was just starting to flower in the sand dunes on a warm, sunny morning. This area seems to have a bright, post-industrial future, as explained below. There is plenty of parking. Nearby Tywardreath village has all the amenities you’d want, so I’d strongly recommend a visit.

Paul explains the history of the beach at Par Sands.

With Mike, a “Friend of Par Beach” and a fan of its ecology, on the sand dunes behind the beach.

The beach at half tide, as seen from the sand dunes.

St Mawes beach

Season: summer

Bright sunshine, blue skies and turquoise water greeted me for this summer visit to beautiful St Mawes. As the tide fell away, affluent visitors trickled out of the well-appointed hotels, second homes and holiday lets, promenading down to the local shops and attractions in the harbour, perhaps to take the ferry over to Falmouth or to just enjoy the seasonal atmosphere. St Mawes is at its best in the summer, a chic and up-market way to enjoy being beside the seaside.

Lucy and Leo, by St Mawes Castle in the sunshine.

A fine vista at St Mawes on a summer morning.

Season: summer

Although it was cloudy with showers, St Mawes was full of visitors, disembarking from the Falmouth ferry or drifting out of the town’s hotels. Water sports were in full swing, helped by St Mawes’ access to excellent sailing and kayaking waters. The aroma of fresh pasties from the shop by the harbour wall and fresh coffee and baguettes from the cafes made this a very welcoming place to visit.

The release that the beach offers to Tim.

A gloomy, atmospheric start to the day in St Mawes.

Season: spring

It was a mild, blustery afternoon at St Mawes. The town was busy, catering for ferry passengers from Falmouth and those staying in St Mawes itself. On a falling tide, the rocks made ideal rock pools to explore, for anemones and crabs, or simply to wonder at the colours in the clear water.

With Stephen on the beach at St Mawes.

Season: winter

My winter return at dawn to St Mawes showcased the village in all its early morning glory, a counterpoint to my first night time manonabeach® the previous autumn. The setting was stunning and I heard from Sue what the beach means to her on Tavern beach below Hotel Tresanton.

Dawn breaks at St Mawes in Cornwall.

On Tavern beach in St Mawes.

Season: autumn

This up-market village sits near the southern tip of the Roseland Peninsula and was the venue for my first night time manonabeach®. I spoke to the manager of Hotel Tresanton and was struck by the lively atmosphere in the town mid-week. St Mawes has plenty of parking, excellent shops, hotels, restaurants and pubs, as well as a post office and newsagent. The daytime views across Carrick Roads or up the Percuil River are second to none and the town feels very welcoming. There is a distinct sense of escape from humdrum life here. St Mawes has the up-market detachment I was aware of in Fowey and, to a certain extent, St Ives.

My chat with Frederika in the courtyard of Hotel Tresanton.

Season: winter

Starting at St Mawes Castle, with St Anthony Head lighthouse blinking to my right, I made my way down the winding, narrow lane towards the harbour at high tide. A slim strand of beach was still visible in front of Hotel Tresanton and weekending visitors were beginning to mill about. St Mawes attracts well-heeled visitors in the summer and early January is a fine, more reflective time to enjoy its charms.

Beach testimonies from Sammy, Laura, Becky, Gill, Natalie and Beth, of The Roseland Gig Rowing Club.

St Mawes on a winter morning, as seen from the castle.

St Just-in-Roseland

Season: winter

Despite recent storms, the bright sunshine and tranquil atmosphere made this an idyllic place to visit. On a low tide, walkers, locals and visitors alike were enjoying this tucked away corner of the beautiful Roseland Peninsula, many here to visit the iconic church by the water. St Just has a spiritual depth and sense of calm that all visitors will enjoy.

Barry and Sue explain what the beach means to them.

Bright sunshine at St Just.

Season: summer

It was a picture perfect summer morning for this visit, calm and tranquil, with the tide starting to fall back from its high water mark. The high tide set the Bar and creek beyond in relief. The summer meant the moorings here were well populated, with few boats on the hard standing. The church threw a mirrored reflection onto the creek. Its grounds are well maintained and a walk through the churchyard is a recommended approach to the creek and its view of Carrick Roads beyond.

The familiarity of this beach to Max.

Craig appreciates his new surroundings.

A fine spot to be on a summer morning in Cornwall.

Season: autumn

I was talking to a long-standing local man about the area, the families who live here and its history. I was struck by his comment that, despite being a homeowner in the village, he had no sense of ownership, merely stewardship and belonging. There can be an ethereal tranquility in this creek.

With Anna, by the water at high tide. This was the four hundredth narrative in the manonabeach® series.

St Just-in-Roseland in the early morning.

Season: spring

This spring re-visit to St Just in Roseland was on a calm morning. Walking down past the church to St Just Bar, I chatted to Jo from Scilly, who works at Pascoe’s boatyard and was mentioned by Julian in my earlier winter visit. Jo pointed out the completed version of the boat shown in the boathouse, under construction on that previous visit, which was now at the water’s edge (pictured below). It’s called Dogboat and is a tender to the yacht Charm of Rhu. The low tide allowed me to film from the entrance to St Just Creek, looking out across Carrick Roads onto a peaceful scene.

With Jo on the Bar at St Just.

St Just Creek and the Carrick Roads, viewed from the beach at low tide.

Season: winter

At first light on a calm morning, St Just-in-Roseland had the feel of a Scottish sea loch, with waves lapping gently on the beach. St Just Creek and St Just Bar are on the west side of the Roseland Peninsula, directly opposite Mylor Churchtown, above Falmouth and St Mawes. The village has an attractive church and an atmospheric graveyard. There are wonderful walks from here all the way to St Mawes.

My chat with Julian and Hugh at Pasco’s boatyard.

The peace and tranquility of St Just-in-Roseland at first light on a winter day.