Category Archives: Lizard

Loe Bar beach

Season: spring

It was a fine, bright spring morning for this visit. The area has exceptional scenery, including the nature reserve at Loe Pool, located on the landward side of the bar. It also has a tranquil and peaceful ambiance, which belies the extreme danger of bathing here. There is a steep shingle slope just offshore, which is impossible to climb up, once in the water, hence the instructions not to bathe at any time here, however inviting it may appear. There’s a delightful stretch of the South West Coast Path in each direction from the beach, including a fine cliff top stroll along to Porthleven.

Part of Jake’s daily routine.

Looking down on Loe Bar in Cornwall.

Season: summer

On a beautiful morning at Loe Bar a German film crew were adapting a Rosamunde Pilcher novel, filming on the bank above the Bar. As the tide rose, you could see and feel the enormous undertow on this steep sided, lethal beach. The difference in the water on either side of the Bar, the raging Atlantic and the tranquil Loe Pool, was marked, the two stretches of water divided by a thin, sandy bar with a few sea cabbages.

John’s affinity for the head space he gets at the beach.

Tim’s perennial love of the sea.

A study in tranquility, Loe Bar in the morning.

Halzephron Cove

Season: spring

An uncharacteristically languid scene greeted me for this spring visit. Sea pink, wild garlic and bluebells adorned the banks behind the cliffs. There’s a fine 180 degree vista here, stretching north from the cove to Porthleven via Loe Bar. There’s also a popular section of the South West Coast Path to enjoy, this spot marking tired walkers’ first view of Porthleven and a bed for the night on their treks up from Lizard Point and Mullion Cove.

A release from the claustrophobia of everyday life for Ray.

Season: autumn

Named after the Cornish “Als Yfferin” or “Hell’s Cliffs”, Halzephron Cove is a storm-lashed enclave on the west side of the Lizard, torn from the high cliffs by the Atlantic Ocean. Although it was a calm morning on this occasion, gazing down into it provoked a chilling sensation. If you like your nature raw, this is the place for you. Others might prefer to just glimpse the cove through the cloak of the tamarisk and pittosporum above as they pass on their way along the South West Coast Path. I went round Halzephron Cliff to the relatively benign atmosphere at Dollar Cove for my interviews, although, as the name suggests, there’s a shipwreck tradition here too.

My chat with Julie at Dollar Cove next to Halzephron Cove.

What pulls John to the beach in the morning.

Gazing into the dark foreboding chasm of Halzephron Cove.

Church Cove & Lizard RNLI Lifeboat station

Season: spring

The car park above the new Lizard Lifeboat House features a memorial stone to those who lost their lives in the wreck of The Ardgarry in December, 1962. Crew from the Lizard Lifeboat spent fourteen hours in the storm attempting to rescue them, without luck. It was ironic then to be greeted by such a tranquil, peaceful sight for this visit. The sea was calm and silver under the sun early in the morning, such is the variety of the weather at this most southerly UK point.

What the beach means to Danielle.

A peaceful morning beside the Lizard Lifeboat launch slipway.

Zusammen in dieser welt, mit Mauer and Sebastian at Kilcobben Cove.

Season: winter

The RNLI is the charity that saves lives at sea. As an organisation, it is supported entirely by voluntary contributions. It fulfills a vital role in helping to safeguard those who use the beach, the coast path and the sea in this beautiful part of the world. I visited the Lifeboat station to witness a training launch of the new Lizard lifeboat. I heard from Maggie, a member of the launching authority, who explained the relationship between the RNLI, the Coastguard and the lifeguards for the benefit of visitors and beachgoers alike, as well as how to help if you see someone in trouble. The Lifeboat station is a marvelous facility, strikingly attractive and highly valued for its service to the community and seafarers alike.

Maggie explains how the RNLI interacts with other services in Cornwall.

The launch of the Lizard lifeboat at Kilcobben Cove on a Sunday morning.

Season: autumn

This was a memorable opportunity to see the new lifeboat house at Kilcobben Cove. It’s easy to walk there from Lizard village and nearby Church Cove is well worth a visit.

With John Harris, a member of the launching authority at the Lizard lifeboat station.

Porthleven

Season: spring

Bright sunshine greeted me for this spring season visit to Porthleven on the Lizard Peninsula. The fishing town had recently taken a pounding from the winter storms, but today the scene couldn’t have been more different. Metal detectorists scoured the calm and peaceful beach, including interviewee Desilina, from Swansea Metal Detecting Club. The main visitor season had begun and the town was in great shape for visitors, day trippers and holidaymakers alike.

Things that you can find on the beach and elsewhere.

Spring arrives at Porthleven.

Season: autumn

I visited Porthleven and its small beach on a beautiful sunny day. The sea was flat calm today, but it has been known on occasion to career over the sea defences and up against the wall of the Bickford-Smith Institute. This building, originally gifted to the town as an “institute of learning”, is now used as council offices. I had a chat with two generations of boatmen who were busy with a working boat on dry land, next to the picturesque harbour. There are many facilities to hand in Porthleven, with a choice of pubs and restaurants. Nearby Porthleven Sands makes for a bracing walk on a windy day.

A chat with Llewellyn on his working boat by the harbour.

With his nephew, Lucas on the working boat.

A view from the inner harbour at Porthleven.

A calm sea at Porthleven.

Porthoustock beach

Season: winter

Porthoustock has a fine industrial heritage, as explained by interviewee Tracy and Dudman’s quarry is still busy, with regular visits from bulk carriers to collect aggregates. The harbour sits next to Falmouth Bay, a busy location for international maritime traffic. Tracy explained how her grandfather had fallen into the sea from the top of the old quarry building, emerging safely, his main concern being whether his tobacco was still usable.

The harbour and quarry, as a part of Porthoustock’s heritage.

All quiet at Porthoustock.

Season: winter

It was a bright day at Porthoustock. Houses and shops were being renovated and tidied up during this quiet time of year. Dudman’s Quarry rumbled industriously in the background, preparing aggregates for their journey to the Baltic and beyond. Back from the beach the village slumbered in the mellow light of a winter’s day.

Jane takes the air in Porthoustock.

A bright winter day at the beach in Porthoustock.

Season: summer

This visit to Porthoustock coincided with the arrival of the bulk carrier “Thames”, docking for aggregates at Dudmans West of England Quarry jetty. There’s an industrious, welcoming feel to the fishing village and a proud heritage of life saving, particularly from the lethal Manacles rocks, as witnessed by interviewee Henry as he showed me around the Old Lifeboat House and its records. Among these were some hand carved sail patterns on boats by Tim Connor, which you can see in the photo gallery, below.

With Henry in the Old Lifeboat House.

Why Barry is at the beach.

Polurrian Cove beach

Season: summer

This is an elemental beach, pure and wild. Today it was full of energy, with untamed breakers rolling in on a strong swell. It was just after high tide and as the beach revealed itself the receding sea crashed in against the black rocks of the small headland. To the south dark, imposing cliffs hid the next cove, Mullion, from view, although its island could be seen out at sea. There are great cliff walks here and fabulous beaches to the north, all the way to Porthleven and beyond.

Leah’s love of the beach and her work on it.

Gary and Sarah, using the beach for a morning run before enjoying it with their children.

The elemental majesty of Polurrian Cove on an ebb tide.

Season: summer

A misty morning and a rising tide greeted me as I strode down the path from the Polurrian Bay Hotel to Polurrian Cove. From above I could see the horses and riders exercising on the beach, a scene unblemished by time in this unspoilt environment. To stand on the western shore of the Lizard Peninsula and gaze out to the wide open sea is one of Cornwall’s finest pleasures. You are transported away to a world of infinite possibilities, dreams and challenges, timeless and vital.

Karen and Ken enjoy the rhythms of the beach.

A misty, natural beach at Polurrian Cove.

Season: spring

It was a misty but mild morning for this visit to Polurrian Cove on the Lizard, but the sea was alive, with Atlantic breakers rolling relentlessly in on a rising tide. I was able to view the beach from the rocks on the headland, offering a different perspective. For my interview I walked up to Mullion village, where I chatted to artist Chand at her ancestor’s grave in the ancient church of St Mellenus. She explains her long family association with the Old Inn at Mullion.

With Chand in the graveyard at St Mellenus Church in Mullion.

The Atlantic Ocean rolls in at Polurrian Cove.

Season: autumn

Polurrian Cove is just round from Mullion Cove. It has no facilities and you approach by a gentle walk down from Mullion. It’s a great beachcomber’s beach, quite isolated and natural, which makes it a good contemplative place too. This is an excellent low profile visitor choice for a trip to appreciate the sea, rocks and sand.

I chatted to Sue, a sea glass jeweller who was collecting her raw materials after high tide at Polurrian Cove.

Down by the water at Polurrian Cove on the Lizard Peninsula.

The beach at Polurrian Cove.

Poldhu Cove beach

Season: winter

Poldhu Cove has a deep, flat beach, which is particularly attractive at low tide. In a natural setting and with dunes and a discreet car park behind, there is an unspoilt feel to the beach. Even the beach cafe nestles quietly in the top corner among the dunes. This is a great location to think things through in a pristine environment, surrounded by nature.

The welcoming nature of the beach.

A view from the back of the beach at low tide.

Season: spring

This cove has a charm and a karma which is very welcoming. Perhaps it’s the fact that you don’t just pass by it, that you have to want to go to it, that makes the atmosphere and the beach goers here so welcoming. In truth, it’s hard to pull yourself away from Poldhu Cove. This is a National Trust beach, so it’s well maintained. There’s a friendly, thriving cafe that also offers surf lessons, as well as an RNLI lifeguard post, making this a safe place to surf and swim.

Pete’s intense relationship with the beach.

By the water at Poldhu Cove in Cornwall on a rising tide.

Season: autumn

An attractive beach on the Lizard, near RNAS Culdrose and through the village of Gunwalloe, Poldhu Cove looks west into the prevailing Atlantic surf and wind, giving it the feel of a north coast beach. It has plenty of beach-side parking and toilets. There is an excellent beach café on the beach, which I featured in my interview.

A chat with Chris at the Poldhu Beach Cafe.

Season: winter

At low tide, the beach here is surprisingly expansive and its flat demeanour leaves intricate swirls in the sand, such is the speed of the tidal race. The rocks by the side of the beach have been blasted and sculpted by the Atlantic, a wonder to enjoy when accessible on a low tide like this. Pristine nature abounds here.

The beach as part of Samantha’s routine.

The wild Atlantic makes landfall.

Nare Point

Season: autumn

It takes quite an effort to get to Nare Point, due to its isolated location. This is an ex-MOD observatory that the voluntary National Coastwatch Institute (NCI) have taken on and are renovating for their purposes. Like the RNLI, the NCI have a vital role in safeguarding us in Cornwall and those of us who go to sea, keeping an eye out for seafarers and walkers alike. The volunteers were very friendly and I enjoyed a panoramic view of the Helford Estuary and Falmouth Bay. There are no facilities for the public here, but it’s well worth a walk out to Nare Point.

The NCI observation post at Nare Point.

A chat with Alec at NCI Nare Point.

Porthkerris beach

Season: autumn

This is a private beach with historical links to the MOD. It serves a Dive School which exploits an exceptional local dive reef and which is well placed for the excellent diving around the Manacles rocks, graveyard to many ships over the years. The school has accommodation and runs courses for all levels, from beginner to expert.

Mike, who runs the Dive Centre, explains the facilities at Porthkerris beach.

The Dive Centre at Porthkerris beach.