Monthly Archives: July 2012

Bedruthan Steps

Season: summer

This evening re-visit, at low tide, showed off the sand patterns and eddies (see facebook manonabeach for photos).  The sea was alive and people were enjoying the release of being near wild elements.

Summer visit photo gallery

With Alison, Hannah and Kevin, in the teeth of the sea and wild nature.

Season: spring

Imagine waking from your favourite dream and finding yourself standing there, in real time.  If I were you, I would wake up on this beach, on this morning, exactly as you see in the film below.

Spring visit photo

As good as it gets.

Simon says… what the beach means to him.

Season: autumn

Bedruthan Steps beach was only accessible up to October 30th this year (2011).  I visited the day before it closed, in beautiful weather towards low tide, the only time you can get down there (+- 2 hours either side).  It is highly atmospheric and timeless, with spherical white quartz pebbles and stones fashioned and churned up in the far back corner.  There are many granite intrusions on the beach.  I also filmed a sea stack which showed the 18 foot difference between high and low tide, marked with mussels.

Bedruthan Steps beach, seen from above at low tide.

Evidence of the wide tide gap in Cornwall.

The wide expanse of the beach and sand.

The sheen of the retreating water on the sand.

The rocks on the waterline at Bedruthan Steps.

My interview with two walkers at Bedruthan Steps.  They were both much travelled.  He had spent a lot of time fell walking and mountaineering in the Lake District.  He was not the first person to say there is nowhere in England with beaches like the North Coast of Cornwall.  There’s also an interesting Northern European insight from his partner.

 

Loe Beach

Season: summer

Tranquillity and peace were the order of the day, at Loe Beach on a high tide.  The sea was calm, ideal for swimming and kayaking, which was already underway as I arrived.  This is also a wonderful beach to look out from, past the swinging moorings and the yachts in the summer.  You can see down to Falmouth and Pendennis Castle via Mylor Churchtown, then look across towards St Just in Roseland and Turnaware Point, on the Roseland Peninsula.  It’s a fine spot, ideal for those who live or work in Truro.

 

 

Summer visit photo gallery

With Matt, Lisa and family, on the waterline at Loe Beach.

The peace and tranquility of Loe Beach in the morning.

Season: spring

There was bright morning sunshine for this spring re-visit.  Two Canadian canoes were preparing for a day paddling the creeks at the top of Carrick Roads and beyond.  I chatted to Peter about the rich history of people’s links to canoes and the beach.

Peter explains his passion and its history.

Early morning at Loe beach.

Season: winter

I returned to Loe Beach, several months after the September dawn visit during the Indian Summer in September 2011.  The uncanny tranquility and peace were still there, as you can see by comparing these two films to those below them, from September of last year.

Chatting to gig rower Michael at Loe beach, January, 2012.

Timeless tranquility at Loe beach, recorded in January, 2012, but it’s always like this first thing in the morning.

Season: autumn

September 23, 2011 below.

Loe beach is the nearest beach to Truro, located in Feock, just south of the city.  It’s popular all year round, especially for boating folk, due to its location at the top of Carrick Roads and the presence of many swinging moorings.  There’s limited parking, plus an excellent beach café and toilets at the beach.  The Truro gig launches and practises from here.  During my early morning visit, it was eerily tranquil, the dawn sun painting a Turner-esque palette in the sky.  It’s very handy if you’re working in Truro and need to see the sea.

Early morning at Loe beach, Feock.

2nd in the series.

and the third in the series…

and the fourth…

and the fifth…

and finally.

My chat with Brian at Loe Beach.

Tolcarne

Season: summer

Bright sunshine over Tolcarne beach started the day, for this summer re-visit.  The immaculate beach was being laid out with temporary sports courts, the sand glistening under an ebb tide.  Newquay harbour, the Atlantic Hotel and Towan Head were as clear as you could wish for, looking out from this fine town beach.

Summer visit photo gallery

Pam and Bill’s eulogy to Tolcarne beach.

On the waterline, at Tolcarne beach.

Season: spring

The sea was an hour or so short of high tide at Tolcarne beach, so there was still some space between the waterline and the beach huts.  This town beach has outstanding views across to Towan Head and Newquay harbour, plus it’s flat, sheltered and safe for bathing and surfing.  You’ve got all you need, with full facilities, at the beach itself, plus you can easily get into Newquay as well.

Spring visit photo

Pepe sums up the appeal of the beach to him.

Tolcarne beach in Newquay, from halfway down the steps

Season: winter

It was a bright, cold morning for my February return to Tolcarne beach in Newquay.  Defined by what you can see from it, the beach nevertheless felt tranquil and welcoming in its own right.  I chatted to some students who were on their way to take an exam in a building by the beach.

Winter visit photo

With Cornwall College students at Tolcarne beach in Newquay.

The view from Tolcarne beach in Newquay.

Season: autumn

Tolcarne is the least publicised of the Newquay beaches, perhaps because of the steep steps by which the beach is accessed from above, on all but a low tide.  As a result, some locals use the beach for bass fishing, guaranteed peace and quiet at this time of the year.  I liked the views across to the harbour at Newquay and further on to the Hewers Hut and the old lifeboat house.  Facilities vary through the seasons, full on in the summer.

A chat with a bass fisherman, enjoying the tranquility afforded by Tolcarne early in the morning.

A great view across the bay to Towan Head on a sunny morning, from the waterline at Tolcarne beach.

The view from above Tolcarne beach.

Perranuthnoe

Season: summer

What a great beach to be walking on, during a bright summer’s morning in West Cornwall.  The ebb tide left a sheen on the sand.  Out at sea, inshore fishing boats collected pots and looked for mackerel.  Perranuthnoe’s stunning location, just round from Mounts Bay and north of Rinsey Cove, lets you look way out to sea and yet still feel safely harboured.  A magical place, highly recommended.

Summer visit photo gallery

With Diane, above Perranuthnoe beach in the morning.

With Lucas and Martin, visiting the beach at Perranuthnoe on their travels.

Marazion Hotel

The outstanding setting for Perranuthnoe beach.

Season: spring

A mild, bright morning for the first spring manonabeach re-visit, at Perranuthnoe.  The high tide left a sheen on the sand, as it started to ebb.  Driving west, you could feel Cornwall waking up for the visitor season, as businesses look forward to greeting new and returning visitors.  In The Sewing Box in the village, Rose told me how the beach held bitter sweet memories for her, as she’d just lost her Greek friend Maria, who lived on the beach there; they would write their names and the date on stones and throw them into the Mediterranean.

Spring visit photo

With Brigid on the beach at Perranuthnoe.

A silver morning, at Perranuthnoe beach in Cornwall.

Season: autumn

This beach is a gem that sits quietly between Praa Sands and Mounts Bay at Marazion, both of which can be easily reached using the South West Coast Path from Perranuthnoe.  There’s no need though, because this beach has excellent nearby parking and toilets, good surf and first class shops and a pub in the village, within walking distance.  There is a choice of cafes to serve the beach and plenty of room on the wide, spacious sand.  If you need a reminder of the power of the sea, just glance at the erosion of the soft cliffs behind the beach.

Chatting with Sean and expectant Jo at Perranuthnoe.

A blustery first look at the beach, a gem between Praa Sands and Marazion.

Prussia Cove

Season: summer

Looking west, just above the Lizard Peninsula, was the Atlantic Ocean, in all its splendour for this re-visit.  I spoke to a fisherman, who emphasised the enhancing effect of the beach’s natural stimuli.  The sun was out and all was well at the weekend.

Summer visit photo

With a fisherman, on the rocks by the Atlantic, explaining the pull of the sea and its sounds.

Looking out west to a fishing boat.

Season: spring

If you park at the top of the hill, next to the big house with the turrets on the tower, then walk down the lane to Kings Cove early in the morning, I dare you not to feel the pioneering spirit of old that still hangs in the air at Prussia Cove.  This is an extremely creative place, by turn inspiring and threatening.  It was no surprise, then, when I ran across a member of the International Musicians Seminar, who pitch up to play together here twice a year, from all over the world.  You can learn more about Jenna’s work at her website.

Spring visit photo

With musician Jenna, above Bessy’s Cove.

Atmosphere and drama, at Prussia Cove.

Season: winter

This part of the Cornish coast looks West from the Lizard Peninsula, located between Praa Sands to the South and Marazion to the West.  Essentially a headland comprising Kings Cove, Bessy’s Cove and Piskies Cove, Prussia Cove has a tradition of derring-do and smuggling.  There’s a walk down a lane from the car park, and no shops or toilets to be found down here.  It’s a magical place, highly recommended.

A snapshot of Old Cornwall.

St Mawes

Season: summer

Although it was cloudy, with showers, St Mawes was full of visitors, disembarking from the Falmouth ferry or drifting out of the town’s hotels.  Watersports were in full swing, helped by St Mawes’ access to excellent sailing and kayaking waters.  The aroma of fresh pasties from the shop by the harbour wall and fresh coffee and baguettes from the cafes made this a very welcoming place to visit.

 

 

 

Summer visit photo gallery

The release that the beach offers to Tim.

A gloomy, atmospheric start to the day in St Mawes.

Season: spring

It was a mild, blustery afternoon at St Mawes for this spring re-visit.  The town was busy, catering for ferry passengers from Falmouth and those staying in St Mawes itself.  On a falling tide, the rocks made ideal rock pools to explore, for anenomes and crabs, or simply to wonder at the colours in the clear water.

Spring visit photo

With Stephen, on the beach at St Mawes.

Watching the ferry from Falmouth, full of visitors on the bank holiday.

Season: winter

My winter return at dawn to St Mawes allowed me to see the town in all its glory, as a counterpoint to my first night time manonabeach in the autumn.  The setting was stunning and I chatted to Sue on the little beach below the Hotel Tresanton, learning what the beach means to her.

Winter visit photo

The dawn breaks, at St Mawes in Cornwall.

My chat with Sue, on the beach at St Mawes.

Season: autumn

This up-market town across Carrick Roads from Falmouth, at the southern tip of the Roseland Peninsula, was the venue for my first night time manonabeach.  I spoke to the manager of the desirable Hotel Tresanton and was very impressed with the atmosphere in the town mid-week.  St Mawes has plenty of parking, toilets, excellent shops, hotels, restaurants and pubs, even a bank, as well as the post office and newsagents.  The daytime views across Carrick Roads or up the Percuil River are second to none and the town felt very welcoming.  There is a distinct sense of escape from humdrum life here.  St Mawes has the up-market detachment I was aware of in Fowey and, to a certain extent, St Ives.  A must-visit location, highly recommended.

My chat with Frederika in the courtyard of the Tresanton Hotel.

The small beach outside the Idle Rocks Hotel in St Mawes.

Trebarwith Strand

Season: summer

It was high tide again, with the sea covering the beach and the white waves crashing onto the black rock.  There’s a magical atmosphere at Trebarwith Strand, harmonious and inclusive.  This small cove and the expansive beach have no pretensions and visitors rarely arrive with media preconceptions, so the natural beauty is at the front of people’s minds.  There’s outstanding walking here, on the cliffs above the strand.

Summer visit photo gallery

With Daryl, above Trebarwith Strand in North Cornwall.

The clash of sea and rock, at Trebarwith Strand.

Season: winter

It was bright sunshine for the last day of the manonabeach winter season.  I re-visited Trebarwith Strand, a breathtakingly beautiful cove, just round from Tintagel.  Clean Atlantic breakers rolled relentlessly against the black rock, the white spray framed in a bright blue sky.

Trebarwith Strand from above, outside the Port William pub.

John explains his profound affinity for the creative side of nature at the beach.

Season: autumn

This was a great surprise after an abortive trip to Tintagel.  I caught Trebarwith Strand at high tide in the sunshine, a stark and dramatic distinction between the black rocks and white surf crashing in on clean sets of waves.  It was a relentless and mesmerising experience to witness, as you can see by the reaction of my interviewee.  There are toilets, a café and shop as well as parking at hand.  Although it’s a fine beach at all tide levels, try to get there at high tide to see what  I mean.

Here’s what someone looks and sounds like when they’re experiencing an extreme natural high.

High tide at Trebarwith Strand, white surf on black rocks.

Tintagel

Season: summer

It was wet and mild at Tintagel for this re-visit, but the sun broke through after a while.  The recent rain caused the waterfall to be at full power and the receding tide allowed me into Merlin’s Cave, just as the sea was falling back spasmodically.  The beach was busy with European and Japanese visitors, enthralled by the Mallory take on the King Arthur legend.  The practicality of the Haven, as Castle Cove is known, was clear to see though, from a shipping perspective, as it lies in the lea of the prevailing south westerly winds and has a convenient loading area, protected by a wall, for deep-drafted vessels.

Summer visit photo gallery

With Lauren on Castle beach, Tintagel, as she explains what the beach means to her.

Tintagel Toy Museum and Collectors Shop

Norwegian Geir endorses the calming effect of the beach.

Inside Merlin’s Cave, a sea tunnel under the island, as the tide starts to fall back.

On Castle beach in the rain.

Season: winter

Tintagel, the legendary birthplace of King Arthur and a seat of Cornish kings of old, was wild and spectacular for my January visit.  I went to the beach at Castle Cove, as it’s known locally, under the island reputed to be Camelot.  I was able to see inside a double-ended sea cave below the bridge, known as Merlin’s Cave.  The sea was rough and the waves were wild.  It’s a good time to visit Tintagel, as it gets packed in the summer, due to the Arthurian connection.

Castle beach, from the waterline.

A sea cave at Tintagel.

3 ladies walking via Tintagel, on a day out together.

Harlyn Bay

Season: summer

A grey, blustery afternoon on Cornwall’s North Coast coincided with a high tide at Harlyn Bay.  I was just able to reach the far end of the beach, away from the hardy beach holidaymakers.  The geology was striking, as if the sedimentary slabs of black rock had been systematically dismantled.  The Atlantic breakers coursed in relentlessly, as visitors bobbed about on boogie boards in the surf.

Summer visit photo gallery

With Chloe and Ben, on the beach at Harlyn Bay.

A different perspective, from the end of the beach.

Season: winter

The sea was wild and rugged for this winter re-visit.  It was misty and mild, as a counterpoint to the pounding sound of the waves.  I met two couples, who each explained what pulled them to the beach.  It felt great to be near the elemental power of Cornwall’s North coast at this time of year.

Winter visit photo

With Max and Sarah, explaining what the beach means to them.

John and Wendy, on holiday from Bath, compare Cornwall to the sea near them at home.

The beach at Harlyn Bay in winter.

Season: autumn

This is a popular North Coast tourist beach.  I was struck by how much more sand there was on the beach compared to my last visit, which reminded me how much sand can be moved by the motion of the tides.  I saw the seasonal end of the tourist time for the beach, with a surf lesson taking place for some visitors from Southampton.

I chatted to a surfing instructor, Ollie, who spoke a lot of sense about Cornwall and its place in a wider society today.  Ollie had spent his whole life in the county and explained some of the pressures facing young people.

Harry reminded me how thrilling it is to visit Cornwall on a spontaneous trip with friends.  You can see he’s just having a good time.  The juxtaposition and nature of the two interviews on this beach is interesting.

Harlyn Bay beach, on a morning after a storm.