Category Archives: Lizard

Coverack

Season: winter

A fine winter sun shone through at Coverack for this re-visit.  The bay is ideal for swimming and the high tide was just falling back.  It’s an interesting beach from a geological perspective, like much of the Lizard Peninsula.  As you look north, the headland is made of Gabbro, from the earth’s crust, then walking south along the beach is like journeying to the centre of the Earth, the opposite headland being made of what is now Serpentine, from the mantel lower down.

Winter visit photo gallery

The beach resonates through generations for Nanette.

Coverack in the sunshine, on a high tide.

Season: summer

On a bright August morning, the secluded bay at Coverack looked spectacular.  This is a great swimming beach and has a charming harbour, still used for inshore fishing.  On an ebb tide, with the beach well covered in sand for this visit, the scenery was stunning, looking out to the bay and a clear morning sun.

Summer visit photo gallery

Tim’s love of the beach and Cornwall.

Three dog walkers, in the morning at Coverack.

On the waterline as the day begins.

Season: spring

The fishing village of Coverack sits between Kennack Sands and Porthoustock, on the eastern side of the Lizard peninsula, in its own small bay.  It has a strong resident population and sense of identity.  All facilities are available and close at hand.  The old fishing harbour is scenic, below the Paris Hotel.

Spring visit photo

With local girl Barbara, proud of her village and background.

A languid sea playing on the beach at Coverack.

Season: autumn

Coverack had an “alive” feeling when I arrived first thing in the morning, with people off to work or school.  The frames for the Christmas lights were being put up and the easily accessible beach was usable, on a low-ish tide.  I walked round to the old harbour to chat with two semi-commercial fishermen, who were on their way out to sea.  Coverack is well worth a visit at any time of the year, not defined by tourism alone.

Leaning over from the top of the harbour steps to chat with Ian and Tim at Coverack harbour.

Down on the waterline at Coverack beach, as the sun comes up and the fishing boats go out.

Early morning at Coverack, from the car park.

Poldhu Cove

Season: winter

This is a magnificent, untamed beach, facing the elements on the western side of the Lizard Peninsula.  At low tide, the beach is surprisingly expansive and its flat demeanour leaves intricate swirls in the sand, such is the speed of the tidal race.  The rocks by the side of the beach have been blasted and sculpted by the Atlantic, a wonder to enjoy when accessible on a low tide like this.  Pristine nature, highly recommended.

Winter visit photo gallery

The beach as part of Samantha’s routine.

The Galleon, Churchtown, Mullion

The wild Atlantic makes land.

Season: spring

This cove has a charm and karma that is very welcoming.  Perhaps it’s the fact that you don’t just pass by it, that you have to want to go to it, that makes the atmosphere and the beachgoers here so welcoming.  In truth, it’s hard to pull yourself away from Poldhu Cove.  This is a National Trust beach, so it’s well maintained.  There’s a friendly, thriving cafe that also offers surf lessons, as well as an RNLI lifeguard post, so it’s a safe place to surf and swim.

Spring visit photo gallery

With the two Daves, watching the surf at Poldhu Cove on the Lizard Peninsula.

Pete’s intense relationship with the beach.

On the waterline at Poldhu Cove in Cornwall, on a rising tide.

Season: autumn

An attractive beach on the Lizard, near RNAS Culdrose and through the village of Gunwalloe, Poldhu Cove looks West into the prevailing Atlantic surf and wind, giving it the feel of a North Coast beach.  It has plenty of beach-side parking and toilets.  There is an excellent beach café on the beach, which I featured in my interview.

Chat with Chris at the excellent Poldhu Beach Cafe in Cornwall.

Among the incredibly sculpted rocks, on the waterline at low tide.

The beach from a bank next to the road, at Poldhu Cove beach.

Porthallow

Season: winter

It was a bright day for this winter re-visit to Porthallow.  The South West Coast Path had collapsed onto the beach, a victim of the wet winter.  Looking across Falmouth Bay was a fine vista, towards St Anthony Head and St Mawes, with the Nare Head and the Dodman Point further along the coast.  Porthallow feels tucked away, peeping out from its corner of the Lizard Peninsula, as the world rushes by.

Winter visit photo gallery

Dorothy observes nature’s work.

Looking out from the beach at Porthallow.

Season: spring

The sea was dead calm at Porthallow, looking out to Falmouth Bay from the top of the Lizard peninsula.  The same eerie silence that I’d noticed on my previous visit still pervaded this ex-pilchard fishing village.  The stark difference between the international maritime industry in front of me as I looked across the bay and the silence behind me was slightly unsettling.

One side of the coin, looking out to sea at Porthallow

The other side of the coin, looking back towards the land

With David, pondering the perennial Cornish conundrum.

Standing on this beach felt like being at the nerve centre of a culture, somewhere oddly profound, held in suspended animation.

Season: autumn

Reputedly where the spirits of old Cornwall are laid to rest, this village and beach ooze history and whimsy.  The beach felt very empty, despite being part of the village.  Porthallow was once a thriving pilchard fishing village, as witnessed by the 5 Pilchards pub.  I had a long chat with 96 year old Muriel Webb, who waxed lyrical about the old days when fishing and farming were king, and when families and the village knew everyone and stuck together.  When I asked her what she thought the future held, she said she hoped for “an improvement in the state of the Age”, which I took as a positive call to arms, to make the best of whatever the present throws at you, rather like Voltaire’s “Il faut cultiver notre jardin” at the end of Candide.

A two part interview with the wonderful 96 year old, Muriel Webb – a Cornish philosopher:

and…

Porthallow on a winter’s morning.

Church Cove, Poldhu

Season: winter

The high tide at Church Cove coincided with a wild, stormy morning.  The sea looked, smelled, sounded and felt magnificent, as it pounded onto the headlands and beach.  Days like this are part of a wonderful, natural power and harmony, uncontrollable and reassuring.  Safe in the lea by the Church of St Winwalloe, next to the stripped tamarisk, you can imagine the effect of another storm on the Portuguese sailors who spilled their silver, just round the corner at Dollar Cove.

Winter visit photo gallery

An ever changing beach and the buzz of being near it for Joe.

franchis holiday park

Nick reflects on aspects of his enjoyment of the beach.

Shelter from the storm, at Church Cove.

Season: summer

It was a magical summer’s morning at Church Cove for this re-visit.  You’ll find the unspoilt beach just outside Gunwalloe, between Poldhu Cove to the south and Halzephron Cove to the north.  There was a soothing, mild breeze and bright sunshine, with tempestuous breakers crashing in, on a rising tide.  Church Cove, including Dollar Cove next door, has an inexplicably benign atmosphere, as testified by Andy in his chat, below.  Great beach, highly recommended.

Summer visit photo gallery

Andy puts this beach into a global context.

What the beach and the sea means to Paul, over a lifetime.

On the rocks at Church Cove, on the Lizard Peninsula.

Season: spring

I had a “Lucy in the Sky…” moment on the waterline at Church Cove.  The incoming waves were so aerated that they piled in like swathes of meringue, exploding on the black cliffs into white shards.  It was sunny and warm; I was in a timeless cove, facing the prevailing elements.

Spring visit photo

Miles explains the role of the beach and the coast in his foraging and brewing.

Picture yourself, on a beach by the ocean…

Season: autumn

I came here on Armistice Day and it was ideal.  The beach was windswept and wild, yet had an ethereal presence, with the hermitage and the church of the storms nestled nearby in the dunes.  There is easy access from the road to this beach.

A minute’s silence, at Church Cove, Poldhu.

The church of St Winwalloe at Church Cove, next to the beach.

Porthoustock

Season: winter

It was a bright day at Porthoustock for this winter re-visit.  Houses and shops were being renovated and tidied up during this quiet time of year.  Dudman’s Quarry continued industriously in the background, preparing aggregates for their journey to the Baltic and beyond.  Back from the beach, the village slumbered in the mellow light of a winter’s day.

Winter visit photo gallery

Jane takes the air in Porthoustock.

A bright winter’s day at the beach in Porthoustock.

Season: summer

My re-visit to Porthoustock coincided with the arrival of the bulk carrier “Thames”, docking for aggregates at Dudmans West of England Quarry jetty.   There’s an industrious, welcoming feel to the fishing village and a proud heritage of life saving, particularly from the lethal Manacles rocks, as witnessed by interviewee Henry, showing me around the Old Lifeboat House and its records.  Amongst these were some hand carved sail patterns on boats, by Tim Connor, which you can see in the photo gallery, below.

Summer visit photo gallery

With Henry, in the Old Lifeboat House.

Why Barry is at the beach.

The bulk carrier “Thames” docks at Porthoustock.

A fortuitous time to arrive on the beach at Porthoustock.

Season: autumn

A great working beach, located in the North East corner of the Lizard, Porthoustock has a working quarry, Dudmans, and several inshore fishing boats that are winched in from tiny boat houses on the beach.  Although its great working days are behind it, the village has a lively feel and I picked up on a great civic pride from the locals I spoke to.  Toilets, shops and all facilities are within walking distance of the beach.

With Jim at Porthoustock, a font of local knowledge despite the intrusive wind noise.

The view from Dudmans Quarry at Porthoustock.

The working fishing boats on the waterline at Porthoustock

My first view of Porthoustock, a busy, well-used beach.

Cadgwith

Season: winter

Time seemed to stand still, standing on the end of the Todden in Cadgwith, as the morning sun broke through the sky onto the two small beaches here.  A high tide was starting to fall away and a blanket of white ebbed and flowed over the black rock of the headlands.  All the boats were pulled right up the hard standing, with one parked on the road, by a thatched cottage.  Most activity was under cover, where I found Peter in his workshop.

Winter visit photo gallery

With Peter, aka Plugger, at ease in his workshop.

Kelynack Cornish Fish

A wonderful start to the day, looking out towards the morning sun from Cadgwith.

cadgwith cottages

Season: autumn

It’s no accident that access to Cadgwith, Mousehole, Mevagissey and Fowey is tricky by road.  They’re all designed to be approached from the sea and all the houses point out to sea, the traditional source of income.  The small inshore fleet at Cadgwith is still viable, but part of a smaller Cornish and UK fishing fleet.  Nowadays, visitors can enjoy looking back towards these harbours from the headlands, part of the excellent South West Coast Path.  The fishing boats, drawn up on the hard standing, seem to fascinate the visitors, perhaps tapping deep into a lost association we all have with the coast, back through our history.

Autumn visit photo gallery

A long way to come, but well worth it for Keith and Carole.

Duchy Hospital

Looking back towards the haven of Cadgwith, a safe harbour for the inshore fishing fleet.

Season: summer

It was a mild morning for this re-visit, with visitors’ children rock pooling on the beach at low tide.  Wild flowers still showed and the birds were singing, above the little beach where I filmed, separated from the fishermen’s beach by the rocky outcrop, known as The Todden.

Summer visit photo gallery

With two visitors at Cadgwith, checking out Cornwall before a Lands End to John O’ Groats cycle ride.

Chris’ place within the rhythms of Cadgwith.

The beach at low tide in Cadgwith, viewed from above.

Season: winter

Cadgwith was shrouded in damp mist for my visit at the end of December, 2011.  This is an attractive fishing village at the foot of the Lizard Peninsula, with a strong fishing tradition.  Its beauty means it’s also a haven for visitors and a magnet to second home owners.  The village has a fine pub, shops and toilets, as well as the chance to enjoy the paraphernalia of the fishing industry.  It’s best to park just above Cadgwith and walk down the narrow road within the village.

Watching John Trewin prepare his nets to go fishing from Cadgwith.

Cadgwith Cove, from The Todden.

Nare Point

Nare Point takes quite an effort to get to, as you would imagine from its isolated position.  It’s an ex-MOD observatory that the voluntary National Coastwatch Institute (NCI) have taken on and are renovating for their purposes.  Like the RNLI, the NCI have a vital role in safeguarding us in Cornwall and those of us who go to sea, keeping an eye out for seafarers and walkers alike.  The volunteers were very friendly and I enjoyed the panoramic view of the Helford Estuary and Falmouth Bay.  There are no facilities for the public here, but it’s well worth the walk out to Nare Point.

The NCI observation post at Nare Point.

Chat with Alec at NCI Nare Point.

Porthkerris

A private beach with historical links to the MOD, this beach serves a Dive School which exploits an exceptional local dive reef and which is well placed for the excellent diving around the Manacles rocks, graveyard to many ships over the years.  The school has accommodation and runs courses for all levels, from beginner to expert.

Mike, who runs the Dive Centre, explains the facilities at Porthkerris beach.

The Dive Centre at Porthkerris beach.

A view from the waterline, at Porthkerris beach.

 

Kynance Cove

Season: autumn

The tide had turned back inward at Kynance Cove, but you could still get round to the blowing hole (the bellows), to see the caves and their serpentine.  Grey clouds cloaked the scene, but the rocks framed a tempting horizon, beyond which lay new adventures and acquaintances, new suggestions and implications, new challenges and opportunities.

Autumn visit photo gallery

Barbara (Eaton) reflects on the beach as a place to look out from, an inspiration for work.

Callestick Farm Cornish Iced Cream

A slightly elevated view, looking down to the beaches at Kynance Cove and out to sea.

franchis holiday park

Season: summer

What a pleasure it was to be the first person on the beach this morning, at beautiful Kynance Cove.  As the tide turned inward, my footsteps were washed away and the beach assumed another guise, as it has done throughout time.  Recent storms have scoured the sand from the top of the beach, but the elements will conspire to replace it just as quickly.  Like Treen Cove and Rinsey Cove, you need to time your visit to coincide with a low tide for the best beach access, although you can get to the cafe at all times.

Summer visit photo gallery

Vicky’s ongoing relationship with the beach and Kynance Cove, for all her family.

Jorg and Regula explain their yearning to be near the sea.

In awe of the relentless sea, round by the bellows at Kynance Cove.

The beach at Kynance Cove, on an early morning visit to catch the low tide.

Season: winter

I went down early to Kynance Cove to catch the tide halfway in, so I could watch the waves against the rocks.  Later, I returned to interview Arthur on the rocky slopes down to the beach, then chat to Gail at low tide by the blow hole (the bellows) on the beach.  This is the most photographed beach in Cornwall and never fails to impress.  You feel like you’re in another world down on the sand and your mind can fly away, if you let it.  Highly recommended, a very special place.

Winter visit photo

My chat with Gail, on the waterline at Kynance Cove in February.

Talking with Arthur of Rock Works, a company securing the rocky side of the pathway down to Kynance Cove in Cornwall.  Watch the guy in the white hat.

The waves and rocks at Kynance Cove on a half tide, from just above the sea.

Season: autumn

This is a must-visit beach, probably the most outstanding in the county, visually, at low tide.  It has everything, rolling breakers, sea stacks, caves lined with serpentine, fine sand, a blow hole and a theatrical setting, when viewed from above on the walk down.  Check tide times before your visit, to catch it at low tide.  There is an excellent café in the cove with facilities and toilets, but access requires a degree of energy from the detached car park, well worth the effort.  I always seem to meet interesting people at Kynance Cove.

A chat with Heather and Rachel.

Chatting with Kelly McMahon, at Kynance Cove, descended from the first McMahon in Australia.

Chat with a traveling bear, plus friend.

The blowing hole, called the bellows, at Kynance Cove.

Serpentine, in the caves at Kynance Cove.

Kynance Cove, from a precarious spot on a ridge overlooking the beach.

 

Lizard Point

Season: autumn

Bright sunshine greeted me for this trip to the end of the Lizard, at the most southerly Point in Britain.  The tide crashed against the rocks, as gulls, crows, jays and a lone chough circled above the fields next to the cliffs.  This part of the county has different geology to the rest of the Lizard and Cornwall, hence the serpentine you find in caves nearby, at Kynance Cove.

Autumn visit photo gallery

The appeal of the rocks and the sea to John, here at Lizard Point.

A bright autumn morning at Britain’s most southerly point.

Season: summer

It was a fine summer’s morning for this re-visit.  On a high tide, gulls congregated on the first landfall at the most southerly point of these islands.  A seal bobbed up at the inlet next to the cafe and the choughs were still in their sea caves.  I walked towards the Housel Bay Hotel, past the brilliantly situated youth hostel by the Lizard lighthouse, to catch the action of the sea against the rocky shore.

Summer visit photo gallery

With Kate and her appreciation of the beach.

Along from Lizard Point, enjoying the sea in the morning.

Season: spring

The early morning sun was bright, against a falling tide.  The low light set the protruding rocks in relief, the clean shadows sharp against the blue sea at the Point.  I walked round to Housel Bay to enjoy its outstanding setting, deep below imposing cliffs that the sun blinked over from the east.  The falling tide created the surreal effect of being in a pleasure dome, with mine the first feet on a virgin beach, a natural high.

Spring visit photo gallery

With Lauren and Peter at Lizard Point.

Margaret’s routine in Cornwall.

As far south as it gets.

The magnificent beach at Housel Bay, in the morning.

Season: winter

The sun was shining once again, for my winter re-visit to the Lizard Point in Cornwall.  I could see way out to sea, but this time I took the opportunity to take the short walk round to the wonderful Housel Bay, with its hotel sitting romantically above the beach.  I chatted on the terrace to an Austrian visitor, Manfred, then Alfie, the proprietor, and I went down to the beach, to learn why it’s so special for him.

With hotelier Alfie on Housel Bay beach, next to the Lizard Point.

Chatting to Manfred, an Austrian visitor, on the terrace of the Housel Bay Hotel on the Lizard peninsula.

Another view of Lizard Point.

Looking south from the Lizard, at its southerly extremity.

Season: autumn

Lizard Point, the most southerly land in Britain, has a small beach next to the old lifeboat house.  All around the beach are reasons to visit, from the serpentine shops and Polpeor café to the seals, choughs and adders that you can find in the area.  The Lizard lighthouse is spectacular, and you have easy access to Bass Point, the Lloyds telegraph building and the Marconi wireless hut, as well as the wonderful coast path.  There are toilets and all facilities to hand, plus a wonderfully located Youth Hostel.  You can even walk easily to the Lizard village, where Ann’s Pasties are some of the best you can get.  A great place for a visit.

Interview with Peter of Polpeor Cafe, the most southerly cafe in Britain.

Interview with Ed & Rebecca at the Lizard.

The garden of the Lizard lighthouse.

Another view of the Lizard lighthouse.  This is the last bit of our island you see when you’re sailing South to France and beyond.

Down on the waterline at Lizard Point.

The Lizard Point and its beach.