Category Archives: West Cornwall

Hayle Towans beach

Season: winter

On a beautiful winter morning cormorants were hanging their wings out to dry on the beach. The sun lit up St Ives across the bay. Behind the beach Hayle harbour had been redeveloped and cleaned up, so this is now a bright and positive environment. The clear light showcased Godrevy lighthouse in the distance. The beach felt harmonious and settling.

With artist Tanya, who explains what the beach means to her.

Season: winter

On the western side of the Hayle estuary lies Porthkidney beach, with fine views from Godrevy Lighthouse right around to St Ives via the Gwithian, Hayle and Carbis Bay beaches. At low tide there are acres of golden sands and it’s a favourite destination for dog walkers. There are extensive dunes behind the beach, interspersed with gun emplacements from World War 2, when Hayle was an important munitions and fuel additives location.

The many uses of the beach for Heather and Martin.

The scene at low tide on Porthkidney beach in Hayle.

Season: autumn

This is an under-used beach with an accessible car park and wonderful, fine sand, as well as great views. There is both history here, with weapons storage during the war and innovation, through the offshore Wave Hub technology, which gives a glimpse of how sustainable, innovative employment and unspoilt nature can co-exist.

An interesting perspective on Hayle’s history.

What the beach and local people mean to a Hayle resident.

The connection cable to the Wavehub project, exposed by the sea’s action on the sand.

The outstanding isolation and natural beauty of Hayle Towans beach in the morning.

A first view of Hayle Towans beach from the car park in the dunes.

Season: summer

A tranquil morning on the beach in Hayle coincided with a fast rising tide. The sea and sky fused into one blur of colour, creating a soporific backdrop to a spectacular beach. As beachgoers flickered in and out of view along the misty water’s edge, the sky seemed to cosset all of us on the beach, holding us in suspended animation before the routine of daily life reclaimed us.

Caroline’s release via the beach on a trip down from Bristol.

A misty still morning on the beach below Hayle Towans.

Perranuthnoe beach

Season: winter

Perranuthnoe is not one of Cornwall’s most heralded beaches, yet its location between Mount’s Bay and Praa Sands is spectacular. There is usually plenty of space to walk in peace and there are fine views out to sea in both directions. The cliff walk round to Mount’s Bay is memorable. The Cabin is handy for food and drink, sitting just behind the beach.

The joy of being near the beach.

A deserted beach at Perranuthnoe.

Season: spring

The tide was rising at Perranuthnoe for this spring visit during the Easter holidays. The soft cliffs at the back of the beach had been carved out by the winter storms, now twenty feet or more back from their position during my last visit. Seaweed was strewn over the beach. It was an ever changing sensory experience, full of drama and energy.

The rejuvenating effect of the beach for Helen.

Season: summer

What a great beach to be walking on during a bright summer’s morning in Penwith! The ebb tide had left a sheen on the sand. Out at sea, inshore fishing boats collected pots and looked for mackerel. Perranuthnoe’s stunning location, just round from Mount’s Bay and north of Rinsey Cove, lets you look way out to sea and yet still feel safely harboured. This is a magical place.

With Diane above Perranuthnoe beach in the morning.

With Lucas and Martin, visiting the beach at Perranuthnoe on their travels.

The outstanding setting for Perranuthnoe beach.

Season: spring

It was a mild, bright morning for the first spring manonabeach® visit to Perranuthnoe. The high tide left a sheen on the sand as it started to ebb. Driving west, you could feel Cornwall waking up for the visitor season, as businesses looked forward to greeting new and returning visitors. In The Sewing Box in the village, Rose told me how the beach held bitter sweet memories for her, as she’d just lost her Greek friend Maria, who lived on the beach there; they would write their names and the date on stones and throw them into the Mediterranean.

With Brigid on the beach at Perranuthnoe.

A silver morning at Perranuthnoe beach in Cornwall.

Season: autumn

This beach is a gem that sits quietly between Praa Sands and Mount’s Bay at Marazion, both of which can be easily reached from here via the South West Coast Path. There is no pressing need though, because this beach has excellent parking, toilets, good surf, plus first class shops and a pub in the village, all within walking distance. There is a choice of cafes to serve the beach and plenty of room on the wide, spacious sand. If you need a reminder of the power of the sea, just glance at the erosion of the soft cliffs behind the beach.

With Sean and an expectant Jo at Perranuthnoe.

Porthmeor beach

Season: summer

An early morning, high summer visit coincided with a low tide on a deserted Porthmeor beach. The clarity of the light combined with a misty, fused palette of colours to create a translucent effect. Sand had been piled high on the upper reaches of the beach by recent onshore breezes and the headlands stood proud against the Atlantic at the turn of the tide.

David’s focus on the elemental appeal of the beach.

Early morning in the summer at Porthmeor beach.

Season: winter

This is the best known St Ives beach, with the best surf in town and backed by the popular Tate St Ives gallery. The scene setting film was from below St Nicholas’ Chapel on the headland, showcasing the depth of the beach’s bay and its situation at the edge of the town. There’s a great walk round to the west from here, where you’ll find a rural, primeval feel as you make your way along towards Zennor and Morvah. Porthmeor is the final town beach before wild Penwith.

The beach as a magical place.

The view from above Porthmeor beach.

Season: autumn

The morning sun is lower now. On this beach, it lit the waves out at sea but hadn’t yet reached the sand. The contrast was striking, highlighted by the white foam of the surf against the dark, golden sand. In the same way, the white sea spray against the black rocks created a dramatic dynamic.

Nina ponders the reflective side of the beach.

By the rocks in the morning, just after high tide.

Season: summer

This visit came at a bright end to the day, with the sun starting to sink in the west over Porthmeor beach. There were still plenty of people on the beach, but the beach-side cafe was full and well-heeled party-goers promenaded, anticipating the pleasures of St Ives in the evening.

With Sara and Linda at Porthmeor beach in St Ives

Looking down on Porthmeor beach from the west.

Season: spring

It was a quiet, peaceful scene at Porthmeor beach. The sea was flat calm, looking across the beach from the atrium at Tate St Ives, which is open to the beach on one side. Early morning walkers were exercising, either before work or on holiday. All was well in St Ives.

Maureen’s enduring relationship with the beach.

What the beach means to Kathy.

A visiting family at the beach.

Porthmeor beach, seen from the Tate at St Ives.

Season: winter

It was a cold, windy morning at Porthmeor beach on this occasion. You hear so often from young adults like Joshua, below, who have grown up in Cornwall, among nature and particularly the sea and beach, this pull and yearning to return to be near the sea.

With Joshua at Porthmeor beach in St Ives.

Season: autumn

This was a visit to St Ives during the Indian Summer of 2011. Situated in front of Tate St Ives Art Gallery, the beach is fashionable and extremely attractive, with breakers rolling onto a pristine beach, which is backed by a chic beach cafe. The town’s facilities are close at hand. A highly enthusiastic metal detectorist was enjoying the balmy weather.

Looking for clues on Porthmeor beach.

The beach, with Tate St Ives behind, on a sunny September day.

Mousehole

Season: summer

The village was quiet for the time of year, although it was early in the day and the coaches hadn’t arrived. Mousehole looked spectacular, the low tide allowing the seasonal boats to settle on the sand. As businesses opened up, there was a chance to look beyond the harbour wall and out towards St Michael’s Mount as the Scillonian passed on its way to St Mary’s on Scilly.

With harbour master Edwin by the beach in Mousehole.

Alison explains the sheer pleasure of the beach and the sea water.

A tranquil morning at low tide in Mousehole.

Season: spring

The aftermath of a stormy, south easterly wind, generally bad news for Mousehole, was still evident, combined with a high tide during this visit. Waves were breaking over the harbour wall, but there was also bright sunshine. The harbour felt like a haven as I watched The Scillonian ferry being buffeted en route to Scilly.

With John, who explains the appeal of the beach and its natural inhabitants.

The inner harbour at Mousehole, with St Michael’s Mount framed by its entrance.

Season: winter

Mousehole is a fishing village in West Cornwall, located just beyond Newlyn. It is popular with visitors, yet also has a strong fishing tradition. I enjoyed excellent fish n’chips by the harbour during my night-time visit to see the Christmas lights. All the facilities you could want are close by the attractive harbour, including art galleries, gift shops, restaurants and cafes, as well as two pubs.

My chat with Peter, working to support the Mousehole Lights at the harbour.

Chatting to local man Dan about life in West Cornwall today.

The Christmas Lights at Mousehole in Penwith.

Season: autumn

The Scillonian III was preparing to leave Penzance harbour for St Marys, as I passed on my way to Mousehole in the dark. The “great white stomach churner” would have a smooth passage today, as it was a flat sea that I looked out onto from the harbour entrance at Mousehole. The village was just waking up, lights still flickering in the harbour side cottages and the first catches of the day being landed. The rising tide was still low, the fishing boats pulling on the taut, raised mooring ropes that attached them to the harbour wall from their hard standing on the beach.

The rhythms of fortune as a fisherman in Mousehole.

The village wakes up in the morning.

Season: winter

Some of the remaining Christmas lights were piled in disarray at the end of the harbour in Mousehole, due to the last round of heavy storms. This seasonal visit coincided with a break in the sustained period of rain and storm-force weather that was gripping the region. Although it was high tide, the waves were temporarily benign. Evidence of the destructive power of the sea was all around, from smashed benches to the broken storm boards that had been ripped from the mouth of the harbour.

The importance of home to Keith.

A break in the stormy weather at Mousehole.

Gwithian beach

Season: winter

There was half a rising tide at Gwihian for this visit. Messy seven foot high waves erupted randomly in a strong wind at this most elemental of beaches. Sand blew across the flat surface of the beach and kite surfers battled with the conditions in front of Godrevy lighthouse. The approach to Gwithian across the dunes, or Towans, offers panoramic views right round from St Ives and Hayle to Godrevy.

The joy of the beach for Faye.

A wild day at Gwithian on a rising tide.

Season: spring

If you want a taste of elemental Cornwall this is a fine beach to visit, as it forms the middle section of a long strand from Godrevy to Hayle Towans, comprising an unbroken ribbon of golden sand and dunes that face the wild Atlantic, with views across to Carbis Bay and St Ives. The tide was almost out and a storm arrived from the west to showcase the wild nature of this popular surfing beach.

What the beach means to Anna.

On the beach at Gwithian, just as the weather turns.

Season: winter

The tide was high and the sea was wild. White breakers spanned the bay right round to St Ives. Storm watchers were out to record the action of the waves on the lighthouse at Godrevy. The soft cliffs here at Gwithian had been clawed away during the the recent spring tides. This was nature in the raw, elemental and spectacular.

Friends at the beach.

Season: summer

If I lived in a city and I wanted to slip away when my head hit the pillow, this is where I’d go. There is such a wide range of sensory experiences. Gwithian can be as wild as you like, especially down on the beach in the wind and next to the surf, but today it was benign, peace personified. There is a rich variety of perspectives, from the contours and hollows of the dunes to a razor sharp horizon on a clear day. The beach is long and flat, so the variety of water textures on this ebb tide was stunning.

With Georgina above the beach at Gwithian on a fine morning.

A sensory overload at Gwithian beach on the north coast of Cornwall.

Season: spring

Choosing your favourite beach is like choosing your top ten records, different every time. This beach is very special though, as it’s where, on my previous visit, it became clear to me that manonabeach® was worth pushing on with. So I suppose that’s one thing that the beach means to me. It was very mild and misty on this visit, with a lot of surfers in the sea. The ebb tide left the sand glistening. A wide expanse of sand was opening up as the tide fell away. Great place, highly recommended.

Bob’s affinity for water and the sea, always pulling him to the beach.

An ebb tide at Gwithian in North Cornwall.

Season: autumn

This magnificent north coast beach is long and wild when the wind’s up, which it was during this visit. There is parking above the beach, along with a vibrant café and toilets.

The exposed beach at Gwithian.

Godrevy beach

Season: winter

The high tide was starting to fall back under a bright blue sky. There were remnants of morning mist towards the Gwithian end of the beach, but the lighthouse could be seen clearly just offshore. Mountainous surf crashed against the beach and the granite rocks. The cliffs were lined with sightseers and photographers, enjoying this window of warm high pressure on the North Cornwall coast.

What the beach means to Rowenna.

Morning mist clears above the beach.

A view from the rocks by the Atlantic.

Season: spring

Bright sunshine and a low, turning tide greeted me at Godrevy. The lighthouse was framed in azure blue, both sea and sky. Across the bay, St Ives stood on its headland with the Atlantic behind. The full beach down to Hayle Towans via Gwithian was laid out, golden sand against the stark cliffs and dunes. It was a picture perfect day.

Jon and Sandra’s testimony to the elements at the beach.

A fine panorama, seen from above Godrevy beach.

Season: winter

Bright sunshine lit a boiling sea at Godrevy. Waves crashed against the rocks, reaching the full height of the lighthouse. The sheer elemental power of nature was evident all around, the sea pounding the granite cliffs in a timeless interaction. People stared at the majesty of the scene, transfixed by the awesome ocean as it made land.

What the beach means to Martin and Ashley.

Season: summer

Godrevy was balmy and hypnotic, with brilliant blues in the calm sea offset by golden sands and stark, black rock flecked with vivid greens. The lighthouse stood sentinel off the coast and there was a clear, panoramic view, from the Atlantic, St Ives, Carbis Bay, Hayle and Gwithian, back round to Godrevy and the headland where I stood.

Elizabeth, at home and where she wants to be.

Jim and Natalia, at one with nature on the beach.

A stunning vista, Godrevy in the morning.

Season: spring

Wild weather greeted me at Godrevy, often the case on this elemental beach. The high tide set rounded stones clattering as they were dragged back into the surf. The sounds of the sea and the wind were invigorating to all on the beach. Visitors Callum and Jane, who clearly felt a strong affinity to this place.

With Callum and Jane on Godrevy beach.

Season: autumn

Located at the end of Gwithian beach, just below Upton Towans in the sand dunes, Godrevy sits in front of a wildlife sanctuary on Cornwall’s north coast. At its headland sits the white Godrevy lighthouse, whose rocks attract dolphins and seals for the fishing. The fusion between the sky and the sea early in the morning is striking, a palette of pastel colours. Parking is close at hand in two car parks, or on the road, if you prefer to walk through the nature reserve.

By the water at Godrevy.

Newlyn

Season: winter

There was a calm between storms for this winter visit to Cornwall’s fishing capital. The market was quiet and many boats hadn’t been out for a while, due to the inclement conditions. Bright sunshine was the order of the day and this was an opportunity to survey a large section of the fishing fleet, sheltering in anticipation of another bout of low pressure.

What the beach means to Jeffrey.

David looks back in time and towards the future.

Mount’s Bay and storm damage at Newlyn Green.

Season: spring

Many boats were still at sea when I arrived at Newlyn for this spring visit, hence the fairly empty harbour. The daily market had just finished. I met wholesaler Craig in the Newlyn Seaman’s Mission. At the quayside, he explained his connection to Newlyn over many generations, as well as his pride in the high quality of fish now landed at the port, due to state of the art icing practice, processing and a quick turnaround from the boats to the consumer. In the modern retail environment consumers can now deal directly with suppliers to have fish delivered directly and quickly to them in first class condition. Craig’s contribution to this enhanced customer service from Cornish merchants can be seen at Fresh Cornish Fish.

Craig’s pride in his Newlyn heritage, plus his view of a future in the fish business.

Newlyn harbour and Mount’s Bay in the morning.

Season: autumn

I arrived in the fishing village of Newlyn, capital of Cornwall’s fishing industry, just before dawn, so several boats were coming in to unload and the market was in full swing. This is an interesting time to visit Newlyn, when it’s in action as a working harbour. I enjoyed a panoramic view from the top of the ice house. Newlyn village has toilets, shops and a great art gallery. There is a great art tradition here, with some of the work viewable in the local galleries. Located on the western end of Mount’s Bay, it’s also a wonderful place to visit for the views and the nearby beach.

With Richard, who organises the transport at Newlyn fish market.

A view from the top of the Ice House at Newlyn market just after dawn has just broken.

On the harbour wall at Newlyn just before dawn.

www.freshcornishfish.co.uk

Porthgwidden beach

Season: winter

Although it is the second smallest of the St Ives beaches and a safe place to swim, Porthgwidden can be a feisty proposition on a rising tide, the unexpected “seventh wave” often creeping further up the beach than an unwary visitor expects. It’s enclosed by rocky headlands on both sides, so waves seem to explode onto the granite, particularly on the town side. There are beach huts for the warmer months and an excellent cafe, giving Porthgwidden a welcoming, cosmopolitan feel. The view directly out to Godrevy lighthouse and the frequent visits by wildlife, seals and cormorants in particular, only add to the attraction.

Kath and Murray summarise the appeal of the beach for them.

By the rocks and the sea as the tide rushes in.

Season: winter

On the back of recent storms, the headland by Porthgwidden beach at St Ives was as sensitive as ever to the changeable, fast-moving weather. The light for this visit was passing through cascading storm clouds out at sea over the lighthouse in the distance onto a fresh, clean beach. The waves appeared to be translucent, topped in crisp white. The early morning is a fine time to catch Porthgwidden beach, before its popularity draws people down here at any time of the year.

The pleasure of working by this beach.

A beautiful morning at Porthgwidden beach in St Ives.

Season: autumn

Although it was quite early, Porthgwidden beach and the sea beyond was a hive of activity. There were seals in the water, fishermen about their business and regular swimmers taking the waters. As the tide fell away, bright sunshine lit the beach in a broad, straight line from over Hayle Towans in the east all the way up to the beach cafe and over the hill to Porthmeor beach. It was a magical start to the day.

Fiona and Nigel’s testimony to the beach and all it offers here in St Ives.

By the water at Porthgwidden beach in the morning.

Season: winter

The 100th manonabeach® beach visit was on the shortest day of the year, December 21st. St Ives was a wonderful place to be on such an occasion.

100 beaches and counting…

Porthminster beach

Season: winter

There are places that have a resonant appeal which is hard to define, rather like when you meet a charismatic person. The Bay of Naples, looking across from Sorrento, is an example and so is St Ives, but Porthminster beach here can exert a particular hold. There is a structure to the view from the beach that’s very reassuring, with clear reference points as you look out, yet the constantly changing light and elements can’t be captured and labelled, which is both refreshing and intoxicating.

On Porthminster beach with Steve, who explains the beach’s permanence.

Josephine and Helen explain what the beach means to them.

Looking down on Porthminster beach from the grass behind.

Season: spring

An uncharacteristically misty day greeted me on this occasion. This St Ives beach looked immaculate, in full swing for the season, with tidy bins on the beach, tables and seats neatly arranged and an industrious atmosphere at the Porthminster café along the beach, serving early breakfasts. This is one of Cornwall’s most popular town beaches, heavily frequented by visitors, many of whom, like Claire, below, keep impressions of this beach with them when they return home.

Porthminster beach through the decades.

A misty morning at Porthminster beach in St Ives.

Season: autumn

It was Bonfire Night, with spectacular fireworks. This beach is popular for weddings too, due to its stunning views of St Ives harbour and beyond, as well as the proximity of hotels to the beach. There is also a choice of beach cafes here. You can enjoy the shops, restaurants and pubs of St Ives too, all in close proximity. This is an excellent choice for well-heeled metropolitan visitors to the county.

Fireworks at Porthminster beach.

Season: winter

Porthminster beach is one of St Ives’ busiest, due to its large size with acres of golden sand and its position just below the railway station and main town car park. The beach was quiet on this occasion and there was plenty of space down by the water, with a view across the bay to St Ives harbour in one direction and Godrevy lighthouse in the other direction. This is a great beach to visit at any time of the year, if only for the amazing light hereabouts.

What the beach means to Izabella.

The tide rolls in at Porthminster beach.

Lamorna Cove

Season: spring

Lamorna Cove was busy on this occasion, with local weekenders adding to the seasonal visitors. Bright sunshine played on a silver blue sea beyond the harbour wall. I noticed three different overseas identities on car number plates, a testimony to the international appeal of Cornwall’s beaches and coves.

With Sarah, about to go diving in the pristine waters off Lamorna Cove.

Lamorna Cove, seen from the harbour wall in the morning.

Season: winter

If you take the long valley walk down to Lamorna Cove from the Wink pub, you are drawn visually and atmospherically to the sea. I was there at high tide, with the sea crashing onto rounded granite stones and the harbour wall. The light was diffused between the sea and sky, giving a rounded feel to the view out from the Cove. There are sixty parking spaces available right down at the Cove. A good time to visit is during Open Studios, when artists display their work in their homes all down the road to the Cove.

My chat with hotelier Amanda at the Cove Hotel, Lamorna Cove, looking down to the sea.

A sub-tropical waterfall at Lamorna Cove in December.

Season: autumn

There’s an artistic tradition at Lamorna Cove. The early morning light is striking here, as the sun breaks over the headland, with the Lizard behind. It’s a lesson in perspective and distance, regardless of the beauty. There’s also a whimsy to the Cove, with petrified trees and sub-tropical ferns lining the lane down to the sea and a strong running stream, which cascades over rocks and provides an audio backdrop as you walk down to the ocean.

What the beach means to Wo and his family.

Dawn rises over Lamorna Cove in Penwith.